Known to German wine lovers as simply, "Zilliken," their formal name is Weingut Forstmeister Geltz-Zilliken. The word 'Forstmeister' translates to "forrest master" and is a reference to Hanno’s grandfather, Ferdinand Geltz, who was a forester for the King of Prussia. He established the winery in the 1890’s when he planted vines on one of the steepest hillsides in Germany, overlooking the Saar River and the town of Saarburger in the valley below. Ferdinand Geltz was also one of the first founders of the VDP grower’s group, the quality guarantee still recognized today.
This wine is from the revered (one would argue Grand Cru) Saarburger Rausch vineyard, a 27-acre historic parcel containing everything from medium-gray, fine layered Devonian slate to diabase, which originated as volcanic magma. The roots of the Riesling vine penetrate up to 32 feet deep in the rock face. From the depths of the Rausch soil the Riesling draws its characteristic minerality and an incomparable elegance. The Zillikens purposefully limit their yields in their prized vineyards to a maximum of 50 hectares (123 acres) in order to guarantee the best possible complexity and quality.
We visited the Zillikens in 2017, where we met with the humble and gracious Riesling legends Hanno Zilliken and daughter Dorothee, who has been working with her father since 2007, and officially took over as winemaker in 2016. The family works the vines with minimal intervention, focusing on the healthiest fruit possible to create the best wines. Zilliken has the deepest underground cellar within the Saar Valley that plunges down an extraordinary three stories beneath the earth, giving the cellar optimal storage conditions of 100% humidity and a consistently cool temperature of 50F degrees year-round. This helps fermentation stay slow in their preferred neutral oak casks, where the wines are vinified from start to finish. Zilliken remains an icon of Germany, producing gallantly complex and balanced wines of intense drive and acidity that carry their significant sugar with perfect poise.
Seize this last opportunity to add these historic vintages to your cellar for pure pleasure and memorable sipping!
JAMES SUCKLING 96 POINTS - "Welcome to the tropics! So much exotic fruit and so many exotic flowers. A concentrated and very elegant Auslese that glides gracefully over the palate. Very long, focused finish and the luscious sweetness is already beautifully integrated. Limited production. Drink or hold." Stuart Pigott.
ANTONIO GALLONI VINOUS 95 POINTS - "Intense aromas of cling peach, sweet lime and smoked almond, with just a hint of brown spice botrytis. Supple peach skin fruit is impressively bright and clear. Offers an exciting juxtaposition of restrained residual sugar, brilliant acidity and piquant minerality on the finish. In a very pure, classical style with undeniable class, this is the best of its ilk from 2011."
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