The Kekfrankos (also known as Blaufrankish in Austria) by Stumpf Pinceszet, is rich and robust, without being overripe and heavy. It gives a deep garnet hue in the glass. Complex aromas of cherry, plum, cranberry, sandalwood, rose hips, hints of saddle leather, earth, and dried herbs contrast its minerality. The Eged-Hegy Dulo (Eged Hill Vineyard) is dry farmed on 40-year-old vines, grown on volcanic soils by brothers Janos and Peter Stumpf; and aged for 18 months in large oak barrels. What a wonderful find at less than $25. Its lively acidity and complexity make it a beautiful wine with food, especially roasted or braised lamb or beef, grilled sausages and chops. 13%ABV.
APPELLATION: Eger
GRAPE COMPOSITION: 100% Kekfrankos
CLIMATE: Continental
SOILS: Ancient dormant volcanoes characterized by limestone, rhyolite and tufa (volcanic sediments)
MACERATION & AGING: Aged 20 months in 500L Hungarian Oak Barrel
ALCOHOL: 13%
RESIDUAL SUGAR: 1.3 g/l
ACIDITY: 6.3 g/l
BACKGROUND:
Janos Stumpf was born in a small wine centric village in the Tokaj appellation called Hercegkut. He then became a physician and ambulance driver in the city of Eger, just a few hours west. As things began to open back up, he started renting some vineyards and making super fresh wines sold in 3 liter plastic jugs. Growing up Tokaj, befriending local winemaking legends like Tibor Gal Sr., and then delving into the storied history of Eger’s cellars and vineyards too hold. He then collaborated with Hungarian born Master Sommelier and 2nd degree black belt Janos Szabo on a 100% Kekfrankos project. His son Peter is now a full partner in the winery, taking a crucial role in the company. He was even married in between the vines on Nagy-Eged in August 2020. Eger is noted in history for withstanding a heavy siege from invading Turks in 1552. As legend has it 2,000 Magyar soldiers protected the walled city from 150,000 during a month-long siege. Dumbfounded by the strength and ferociousness of the defenders the superstitious Turks were convinced that the wine that dripped down the beards and armor of the Magyars had been mixed with bull’s blood and given them superhuman strength. Egri Bikavér or “Bulls Blood,” a Kékfrankos based blend has since been the calling card of the appellation. VINEYARDS:
Janos and Peter dry farm approximately 20 hectares of vines split between the south facing Nagy Eged (Eged mountain) and just south on the slopes of Sikhegy (Sik hill). Painting in broad strokes, the higher altitude and steeper slopes of the Eged Hegy are extremely limestone rich, while down on the Sikhegy, it’s dominated by volcanic (mostly tuff) soils. Regardless of whether planted to Kekfrankos, Furmint, Merlot, Muscat, or Hrslevel, the limestone brings more body and extract while the volcanic soils yield less body but much higher acidity. Vine density is high, often heavy green harvesting, and while not yet organically certied, in a newly planted vineyard (4 hectares) they are not using pesticides, herbicides, and relying more on sulfur, orange oil, algae and occasionally copper and plans to switch to organic farming in other plantations with appropriate experience in the future. They are investing in the viticulture heading in this direction. They’ve also been experimenting with clones since the early 1990s, so there’s a natural resilience and health defenses built up over the last two decades. Their Kekfrankos is between 40-50 years old.
WINEMAKING:
Geared toward minimal intervention, their first cellar is dug into the soft but sturdy volcanic tuff and joins a vast labyrinth of barrel lled caves that crisscross below the streets of Eger. Cool and damp with barely any temperature uctuation, it’s an ideal environment for fermentation and elevage. The walls are covered in thick cellar mold. In the past couple of years, they’ve acquired a second cellar that’s been freshly dug out, and is just starting to develop its own character. All the grapes are hand harvested, fermentation is spontaneous, a couple of punchdowns a day, and maceration is typically around 3 weeks. The Kekfrankos spends a minimum of 18 months in barrel and is bottled unned and unltered. They only use 500l barrels (Acacia and Hungarian oak) from a nearby cooperage in Bukk. The Acacia lends itself to holding onto the acidity while the Hungarian oak adds density and grip. The only addition is a small amount of SO2 at bottling (20-25ppm total). Bottle aging is key and they try to get as much of it as possible. NOTES AND PAIRINGS: During our last visit, Peter explained where they’ve been narrowing down the limestone rich parcels (higher extract, more body) and the more volcanic parcels (higher acidity and less body) and finding balance. Partially aged in the new cellar, which hasn’t yet developed the dense mold of the older cellar, also played a factor with more angel’s share and a cooler temperature. It’s dense but refreshing, and has enough texture to handle richer foods. Have some Pacalporkolt (fatty tripe stew).
APPELLATION: Eger
GRAPE COMPOSITION: 100% Kekfrankos
CLIMATE: Continental
SOILS: Ancient dormant volcanoes characterized by limestone, rhyolite and tufa (volcanic sediments)
MACERATION & AGING: Aged 20 months in 500L Hungarian Oak Barrel
ALCOHOL: 13%
RESIDUAL SUGAR: 1.3 g/l
ACIDITY: 6.3 g/l
BACKGROUND:
Janos Stumpf was born in a small wine centric village in the Tokaj appellation called Hercegkut. He then became a physician and ambulance driver in the city of Eger, just a few hours west. As things began to open back up, he started renting some vineyards and making super fresh wines sold in 3 liter plastic jugs. Growing up Tokaj, befriending local winemaking legends like Tibor Gal Sr., and then delving into the storied history of Eger’s cellars and vineyards too hold. He then collaborated with Hungarian born Master Sommelier and 2nd degree black belt Janos Szabo on a 100% Kekfrankos project. His son Peter is now a full partner in the winery, taking a crucial role in the company. He was even married in between the vines on Nagy-Eged in August 2020. Eger is noted in history for withstanding a heavy siege from invading Turks in 1552. As legend has it 2,000 Magyar soldiers protected the walled city from 150,000 during a month-long siege. Dumbfounded by the strength and ferociousness of the defenders the superstitious Turks were convinced that the wine that dripped down the beards and armor of the Magyars had been mixed with bull’s blood and given them superhuman strength. Egri Bikavér or “Bulls Blood,” a Kékfrankos based blend has since been the calling card of the appellation. VINEYARDS:
Janos and Peter dry farm approximately 20 hectares of vines split between the south facing Nagy Eged (Eged mountain) and just south on the slopes of Sikhegy (Sik hill). Painting in broad strokes, the higher altitude and steeper slopes of the Eged Hegy are extremely limestone rich, while down on the Sikhegy, it’s dominated by volcanic (mostly tuff) soils. Regardless of whether planted to Kekfrankos, Furmint, Merlot, Muscat, or Hrslevel, the limestone brings more body and extract while the volcanic soils yield less body but much higher acidity. Vine density is high, often heavy green harvesting, and while not yet organically certied, in a newly planted vineyard (4 hectares) they are not using pesticides, herbicides, and relying more on sulfur, orange oil, algae and occasionally copper and plans to switch to organic farming in other plantations with appropriate experience in the future. They are investing in the viticulture heading in this direction. They’ve also been experimenting with clones since the early 1990s, so there’s a natural resilience and health defenses built up over the last two decades. Their Kekfrankos is between 40-50 years old.
WINEMAKING:
Geared toward minimal intervention, their first cellar is dug into the soft but sturdy volcanic tuff and joins a vast labyrinth of barrel lled caves that crisscross below the streets of Eger. Cool and damp with barely any temperature uctuation, it’s an ideal environment for fermentation and elevage. The walls are covered in thick cellar mold. In the past couple of years, they’ve acquired a second cellar that’s been freshly dug out, and is just starting to develop its own character. All the grapes are hand harvested, fermentation is spontaneous, a couple of punchdowns a day, and maceration is typically around 3 weeks. The Kekfrankos spends a minimum of 18 months in barrel and is bottled unned and unltered. They only use 500l barrels (Acacia and Hungarian oak) from a nearby cooperage in Bukk. The Acacia lends itself to holding onto the acidity while the Hungarian oak adds density and grip. The only addition is a small amount of SO2 at bottling (20-25ppm total). Bottle aging is key and they try to get as much of it as possible. NOTES AND PAIRINGS: During our last visit, Peter explained where they’ve been narrowing down the limestone rich parcels (higher extract, more body) and the more volcanic parcels (higher acidity and less body) and finding balance. Partially aged in the new cellar, which hasn’t yet developed the dense mold of the older cellar, also played a factor with more angel’s share and a cooler temperature. It’s dense but refreshing, and has enough texture to handle richer foods. Have some Pacalporkolt (fatty tripe stew).