WINE ADVOCATE - 94 POINTS The NV 50 Years Old Tawny Porto is a typical Douro field blend bottled in April 2022 with a Vinolok stopper and 124.8 grams per liter of residual sugar. Is this a step up qualitatively over the lovely 40 Year? I'd say the 40 is better, but that's a hard question to answer because this seems so differently styled. Most of the age-indicated Tawnies from Sandeman have some stylistic similarity. This does too, but if you were going to pick one in the group as an outlier, this is it. It seems drier and sterner. The most notable difference is in some power, the way this attacks on the finish in a fairly stern fashion and seems to brood. It dries as it lingers and leans a little more to the brandy side of the ledger (without becoming hot). It maintains the otherwise elegant style and relatively lively demeanor, relative to age, of its siblings. It is by far the darkest and most nuanced of the Tawnies, and it is very concentrated. Complexity is often the biggest selling point for me, but I'd still pick the lusher but still intense 40 Year as my favorite of the group. That certainly has plenty of complexity on its own, but this wins on power. Pick 'em. While mine is the 40, this 50 might do even better if you like to pair them with cheeses and the like.
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