Cellar master Arnaud Lavantureux expounds that his “idea of wine is to show off the exceptional terroirs of Chablis with élevages in wood that are more ‘Côte de Beaune’ in style, to have a combination of flesh on the attack with saline tension on the finish.” His latest release from the grand cru Vaudésir majestically expresses this duality: there is a textural and aromatic opulence comparable to the top wines of Meursault or Corton-Charlemagne, expressed in the form of a deft kiss of oak with subtle toasted notes and delicate vanilla blossom. But unlike those wines, Arnaud’s have a directness that could only come from Chablisien soil. Already in spectacular harmony, this beauty deserves a bin in every Burgundy collector’s cellar. Anthony Lynch
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