WINE ADVOCATE - The 2019 Morey-Saint-Denis Village offers up aromas of smoky berry fruit, ripe cherries, loamy soil and warm spices. Medium to full-bodied, layered and velvety, it's generous and gourmand, with melting tannins and a fleshy core of fruit. The 2019 vintage has turned out nicely at this tiny domaine of scarcely more than three hectares, and while the wines clearly bear the stamp of a warm, ripe vintage, they're purer and more elegant than the rich, carnal 2018s; a vintage Jouan and I revisited in the form of a bottle of Clos Saint-Denis, opened and finished in his storage shed while he smoked several of his signature cigarettes—a memorable way to begin the day, and proof, if further were needed, of the lengths to which I go to keep readers optimally informed. These are resolutely old-fashioned Burgundies, with everything that entails, and it's easy to understand why they have a devoted following among wine lovers for whom they offer not only considerable organoleptic stimulation but also the undeniable pleasure of indulged nostalgia.
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