ANTONIO GALLONI - VINOUS - 92 POINTS I harbor fond memories of halbtrocken Merkelbach Wurzgartens long past, so perhaps you'll think I was overly influenced simply by having once again seen those words on a bottle of their Riesling. But its contents certainly left me wishing that they would let this happen in their cellar more often. A classic Wurzgarten nose of fresh strawberry and lime adds hints of more Erden-typical tarragon and sassafras. Subtly silken in feel, this finishes buoyant and lusciously long, with animating, bright primary juiciness and transparency to shimmering impingements of stones and mineral salts. Incidentally, it weighs in at a mere 10% alcohol, a reminder that the Merkelbachs pick for Spatlese at must weights that most of today's top Mosel growers would deem appropriate for Kabinett. A prime example of what I call "hidden sweetness" - residual sugar playing a supportive and catalytic role while not engendering any overt sense of sweetness - this will perform brilliantly at table as well as in your cellar.
- By David Schildknecht on August 2017. Drinking window: 2017- 2028.
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