The 12 Champagnes of Christmas
In wine, as in other things, a little bit of knowledge can be a dangerous thing. This adage is often true of vintage charts, which is to say that over the years we have had more than a few superb wines from poorly rated vintages. A great, recent example of this phenomenon is this Krug masterpiece from the much-maligned 2011 vintage. Krug's blending panel delt with the challenges of the vintage through a very draconian fruit selection and by being open minded with their blending decisions. For example, in 2011 the staff found that Meunier provided surprising freshness and cut to the cuvée while the Chardonnay contributed density and ripeness, very much the inverse of their experience with prior vintages. They dubbed the resultant cuvee "Spirited Roundness" because it yielded a generous, multi-faceted bubbly with bright yellow fruits, toast and brown spices reined in by a long, stone-flecked finish.
JAMES SUCKLING 98 POINTS - "It shows reserved character but with a lot of energy and tension. Concentrated citrus fruit, candied lemons and mandarin peel with hints of savory herbs and spices. Notes of brioche and caraway seeds. Full-bodied, complex and nervy on the palate. It has fine, silky bubbles yet it’s structured and firm with a lot of power. It builds up on the finish with freshness and vibrancy."
WINE SPECTATOR 97 POINTS - "There's an exuberant appeal to this vivid, fragrant Champagne, with wafts of lime blossoms, cardamom, ground coffee and anise aromatics finely layered with flavors of crushed black cherry, glazed tangerine and grilled nut that show a streak of salinity. Yet this reveals its true class with the deft integration of rich flavors with chiseled acidity and refined, plush texture. Long and seamless, this is not just a catchy tune but a maestro conducting a symphony. Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. Disgorged summer 2022 (Krug ID 322038). Drink now through 2040."
JEB DUNNUCK 97 POINTS - "Because 2011 was a challenging vintage for Champagne, it would be very easy to over-generalize, as many readers may have had less than ideal experiences elsewhere. But Krug’s 2011 Champagne Millesime Brut is not your average Champagne. With a rounded nose, it pours a medium golden straw hue and is creamy with aromas of orange blossoms, custard, fresh pear, hazelnut, and delicate smoky incense. Medium to full-bodied and refined on the palate, it has a rounded and pristine profile, with ripe, balanced fruit floating through the palate, a pinpoint mousse, and a delicate hint of almond skin on the finish that I would expect to become more pronounced with age. Following the more tension-driven vintage of 2008, which was characterized by a more high-toned and lemon-tinged profile, this wine will be accessible sooner (probably also the case for the future release of 2012) and will undoubtedly provide an open window for drinking over the coming 15 to 20 years. Drink 2028-2048."
In wine, as in other things, a little bit of knowledge can be a dangerous thing. This adage is often true of vintage charts, which is to say that over the years we have had more than a few superb wines from poorly rated vintages. A great, recent example of this phenomenon is this Krug masterpiece from the much-maligned 2011 vintage. Krug's blending panel delt with the challenges of the vintage through a very draconian fruit selection and by being open minded with their blending decisions. For example, in 2011 the staff found that Meunier provided surprising freshness and cut to the cuvée while the Chardonnay contributed density and ripeness, very much the inverse of their experience with prior vintages. They dubbed the resultant cuvee "Spirited Roundness" because it yielded a generous, multi-faceted bubbly with bright yellow fruits, toast and brown spices reined in by a long, stone-flecked finish.
JAMES SUCKLING 98 POINTS - "It shows reserved character but with a lot of energy and tension. Concentrated citrus fruit, candied lemons and mandarin peel with hints of savory herbs and spices. Notes of brioche and caraway seeds. Full-bodied, complex and nervy on the palate. It has fine, silky bubbles yet it’s structured and firm with a lot of power. It builds up on the finish with freshness and vibrancy."
WINE SPECTATOR 97 POINTS - "There's an exuberant appeal to this vivid, fragrant Champagne, with wafts of lime blossoms, cardamom, ground coffee and anise aromatics finely layered with flavors of crushed black cherry, glazed tangerine and grilled nut that show a streak of salinity. Yet this reveals its true class with the deft integration of rich flavors with chiseled acidity and refined, plush texture. Long and seamless, this is not just a catchy tune but a maestro conducting a symphony. Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. Disgorged summer 2022 (Krug ID 322038). Drink now through 2040."
JEB DUNNUCK 97 POINTS - "Because 2011 was a challenging vintage for Champagne, it would be very easy to over-generalize, as many readers may have had less than ideal experiences elsewhere. But Krug’s 2011 Champagne Millesime Brut is not your average Champagne. With a rounded nose, it pours a medium golden straw hue and is creamy with aromas of orange blossoms, custard, fresh pear, hazelnut, and delicate smoky incense. Medium to full-bodied and refined on the palate, it has a rounded and pristine profile, with ripe, balanced fruit floating through the palate, a pinpoint mousse, and a delicate hint of almond skin on the finish that I would expect to become more pronounced with age. Following the more tension-driven vintage of 2008, which was characterized by a more high-toned and lemon-tinged profile, this wine will be accessible sooner (probably also the case for the future release of 2012) and will undoubtedly provide an open window for drinking over the coming 15 to 20 years. Drink 2028-2048."
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